When we purchased mature fruit trees, one in particular we wanted was a delicious Fuji Apple. The nursery advised us that we would have fruit bearing the first year. Well, I have since found out that this is not the case at all.
As we observed the tree grow this Spring and into the early Summer, we noticed that there wasn't a hint of fruit. After questioning the nursery, we are now being advised that it takes 3-4 years for a Fuji to bear fruit AND only if the limbs are hanging downward (pointed towards the ground). Story changes quickly once the sale is made!
Furthermore, we are now being advised that in order to get the branches of a Fuji to hang downward, we have to place some device (string and a weight, or similar) to the branches to force the downward growth of the limb., which will then allow fruit (in a few years).
I am an amateur and don't know this to be totally true but maybe some one reading this is educated about Fuji's.. If you are, comments are appreciated.
Thanks and happy growing.
GARDENING -
The constant challenges of an everyday vegetable gardener and dealing with all the aspects of planting as an amateur.
It is an awareness that helps to achieve Garden perfection.
It is an awareness that helps to achieve Garden perfection.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Netting, not sure it works
I mentioned previously that "netting", sold at most big box gardening centers, was the best protection I could find to keep wildlife from eating our Asian pears. Well, I can no longer say that. After being away a few days, those little critters (squirrels) found their way into the netting and ate every last pear! I'm not sure what the answer is. Every one I speak with has a different method and NONE of them seem to work. The latest mention is a squirrel trap but I hate to think of doing that. Maybe I am better off buying these pears (which we love) at the store until the tree and fruit-bearing pears get so large that the squirrels will choke on them!
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Trying to grow tomatoes in SC
I have gone from tomato plants in a raised bed with fertilizer and soil from a nursery (planting in various locations) to placing tomato plants in different size pots - yet they all continue to die off or are terribly diseased. I am beginning to think that the heat is so intense in SC (regardless of how much watering I do), that it is simply too much for tomatoes. I have tried all varieties, including disease resistent, mature plants and have purchased them from a variety of sellers.
Is anyone in this region (I think it is 9), experiencing similar problems??
On the other hand, Egg Plant is thriving like a wildfire out of control. So are the squash and certain peppers. especially the sweet italian banana types. Squash does fairly well also.
I would appreciate comments regarding the tomatoes. Maybe I am just doing something wrong but NEVER had this problem up North.
Thanks.
Is anyone in this region (I think it is 9), experiencing similar problems??
On the other hand, Egg Plant is thriving like a wildfire out of control. So are the squash and certain peppers. especially the sweet italian banana types. Squash does fairly well also.
I would appreciate comments regarding the tomatoes. Maybe I am just doing something wrong but NEVER had this problem up North.
Thanks.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Grow Boxes - excellent find
aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/docs/GrowBoxKit
This was an excellent find if you are struggling with living vegetable plants and diseases.
Found this site through a friend and it appears to be an excellent idea and a cheap way to
ensure good growth and boxes can be used for years. I have already gone out and bought the
materials. This may be 1) cheaper than the conventional method and 2) provide much better results!
This was an excellent find if you are struggling with living vegetable plants and diseases.
Found this site through a friend and it appears to be an excellent idea and a cheap way to
ensure good growth and boxes can be used for years. I have already gone out and bought the
materials. This may be 1) cheaper than the conventional method and 2) provide much better results!
Monday, July 11, 2011
Volunteers - a Beauty and Hardy as can be
In gardening and botanical terminology, a volunteer is a plant that grows on its own, rather than being deliberately planted by a human farmer or gardener. Volunteers often grow from seeds that float in on the wind, are dropped by birds, or are inadvertently mixed into compost before it is used.
Unlike weeds, which are unwanted plants, a volunteer may be encouraged once it appears, being watered, fertilized, or otherwise cared for.
Volunteers that grow from the seeds of specific cultivars do not reliably "come true", and often differ significantly from the parent. Such open pollinated plants, if they show desirable characteristics, may be selected to become new cultivar
This Volunteer was growing from under my neighbors fence, so I dug it out, cut the root in half and decided to plant it anyway, Wow, what a surprise and beautiful addition to the garden. I have so many roots now ascending from the base that I will split those and have many more beautiful red plants next year AND - THE BEST PART - it is free!!
What are these critters?
This bug is all over my veggies, especially the eggplant. Can any one identify this creature and is it a good or bad critter for the garden? Nothing seems to effect him either, tried all types of insect sprays!
Thanks.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Vine split tomatoes
Tomatoes can over-ripe or, in this case, probably had too much watering, if not a fungus. Pick them a little on the early side and let them ripen further on a windowsill.
If the plants get really dried out and then soggy with water and then dried out again, this may cause the tomatoes to split.
Or, you may have a case of sour rot. This is a fungus that leads to wide, deep cracks in tomatoes near the stem end. This can be correctred with a standard fungicide found in your local garden centers. Spray it on the plant according to the manufacturer's directions and tomatoes should be fine. To avoid fungal problems in the future, do not water the tops of the plants.
Good luck.
If the plants get really dried out and then soggy with water and then dried out again, this may cause the tomatoes to split.
Or, you may have a case of sour rot. This is a fungus that leads to wide, deep cracks in tomatoes near the stem end. This can be correctred with a standard fungicide found in your local garden centers. Spray it on the plant according to the manufacturer's directions and tomatoes should be fine. To avoid fungal problems in the future, do not water the tops of the plants.
Good luck.
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